Laws preparation Spanish jamon strictly prescribed. A Belarusian traditional ham - what his secrets?
Nikolai Matrunchik - Master of Philosophy, historian, Worker Orthodox Brotherhood, but today most of all and above all - the farmer. excuse today, to visit his, It was a special. He opened the two-year exposure ham - smoked and dried.
training
To succeed delicious ham, pig, with which it is done, It should be well fed, "Homemade food".
"Pigs Vietnamese breeds are not suitable for hams. They have almost no fat, and kumpyak, as well as jamon still should be with an outgrowth », - explains Mikola Matrunchyk.
“Kumpyak is a part of a pork leg, then, what in Russia is called ham. This is usually part of the hind leg, "Hips". But sometimes salted and the front leg, "Shoulder blade". Salted dry or in brine and then properly dried in air. The word "kumpyak" used to exist in the northern part of Belarus, from Vaukavysk to Orsha. In the southern part of Belarus, from Novogrudok to Mogilev, such a word was not known, said "thigh", — pizza in "Our History" Alexander White.
In Spain, the color of the pig depends on the name of the ham. Distinguish serano jamon, he is from a white pig, and Iberian ham - from a black pig.
“There is no such difference in Belarusian peasants. Suitable pig of any color, the main thing, that the pig ate while alive, desirable, to have natural foods in her diet. Also important, how the jamon will be stored, what smells he will be able to absorb. I have a summer house, for example, grows about a hundred species of trees, and they give their fragrance to everything, that is nearby. In summer, the jamon absorbs some odors, winter - others », - says Nikolai Matrunchik.
The main taster of the jamon is 88-year-old mother of Mikola Matrunchyk. And the best assessment is her words: "How to eat as a child".
Cooking
Kumpyaki go through our entire history. In documents they are mentioned regularly since the XV century. Including in the Charter 1588 of the year, in the section, which determines compensation for looted property: “Twenty bucks for meat. Fifteen bucks for lard. for a bunch two money. For a copper oil a heap of money. Big money for big charcoal cheese ».
Therefore, who dares one day to try their homemade ham, you need to be patient.
“This fellow, that now we will be worth, is considered biennial. It dried and “led” for two years. The most important thing at the initial stage, it is very generous to cover the ham with salt, immerse it in this brine, which lets the ham. The ham should soak up to the bone. After it needs to be hung up to dry. The main thing in this case - to choose a room with the right temperature, moisture and blowing. It is impossible to make a ham in a city apartment. This one I dried in the attic. You can't dance all the time at the ham, check it out. You need to leave him alone. But occasionally observe, so that the process does not go in the wrong direction. After all, when the result of work bloom, spoils, then it is unlikely that you will ever try to do it again. ", Says the master.
In the photo, polenta and jamon from cook Matrunchyk.
By the way, in the Podlaskie Voivodeship of Poland, where Belarusians live compactly, hams are conceptualized and registered as a traditional product. The traditional Podlasie village ham weighs 6-8 kg and reaches 35-40 cm in length..
It is done so. Kumpyak with garlic, juniper berries, greens and peppers are placed in a wooden barrel or box with salt, which "pulls" water out of it and stabilizes the bacterial flora.
Tasting
The Spaniards check the readiness of the jamon with a special long needle. They make holes in different parts of the jamon, to understand by smell, or ready jamon. There is an easier way: just panyukhats hamon. When the saliva ran away, so he is ready.
The Spaniards also pay close attention to slicing ham. They even have a special profession - a card player, man, which with a special tool thinly cuts it.
One of the hamsters Mikola Matrunchyk tried to make it a little smoked. This jam turned out brighter in color and with a light smoke scent.
Mikola Matrunchyk took only a sharper knife for this. The first piece looked at the light - beautiful, saturated color. You can eat.
“And the smell, and the taste of jamon is very difficult to describe in words. But the taste is clearly sour. that is, that the product is fermented. He has matured in its own juice, without any outside processing. Such products is the most useful for human health ", - says the owner.
Smokehouse made the project of Nicholas Matrunchik. Smoke from the stove is on a long pipe and a smokehouse comes already cold. This is done, to dishes within just smoke abdavalisya, not cooked.
Dishes of ham, as well as with the Italian prashuta, Spanish jamon, there are many. for example, melon slices wrapped in ham. It provides a combination of salty and juicy meat, sweet melon.
Belarusian chef advises and add the ham in a variety of salads.
"But it's best to take a piece and eat just, bread. Once in the village and did. Carried in the field for mowing grass or, We took the whole day, when cows grazed or when walking in the woods for mushrooms. Ham - it is strong. Eat a small piece, and ate the whole day ", - says Nikolay Matrunchik.
This wall of hawthorn. Nicholas says Matrunchik, that through this natural fence inside its courtyard temperature is always above a few degrees.
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